Indonesia: Papua New Guinea

jordan3880

Papua New Guinea Kimel Peaberry

Papua New Guinea occupies the Eastern half of the island it shares with the Indonesian provice of Irian or simply Papua. There is very, very little organized coffee production from the Irian side, But the PNG highlands are planted with a variety of coffee types, and a combination of a few large plantations, and many many smallholder coffee gardens. PNG coffees can be a bit confusing. They are different from other Indonesian, Southeast Asian or Pacific Island types. All PNG coffees are wet-processed, which is a large part of their more bright, acidic profile, and why some basic aspects of the cup are indeed similar to a Central America coffee. Many other Indonesia coffees, such as Sumatra and the bulk of Sulawesi coffees, are "wet-hulled" which results in lower acidity, heavy body, and the funky "earthy" character which some people love more than others. There can be a huge range of cups flavors from rustic, bulked Organic lots to Plantation coffees. The plantations are larger farms that have their own coffee-processing wet mills, so they are able to control all the variables of production better than the small farm coffee gardens. That is where the Kimel farms are rather interesting. Kimel has their own wet mills like a plantation, but is actually a group of farms centered aroung the main 620 hectare plantation and is cooperatively owned by the indigenous Opais peoples of the Wahgi Valley. In a sense, it is a private cooperative, and mainly due to excellent altitudes and decent quality control at the mill, the coffee has a vibrant brightness while retaining some unique PNG origin characteristics. Also interesting is the fact Kimel is comprised of more cultivars than you can count on one hand, a mixed salad of green coffees: Typica, Arusha, Blue Mountain, Mundo Novo, Catimor, Caturra, and probably more! This indicates that, while buyers and sellers like to represent coffees being of one or two cultivars, in reality farmers tend to plant some on any type that comes along, a way of hedging your bets in case any particular cultivar doesn't pan out. Kimel is broadly available since Royal Coffee sells it, but there is a good range of quality from lot to lot, grade to grade. This particular PB lot is extremely nice, though lacking some body and complexity. The dry fragrance is sweet and piquant, especially vibrant at City+ to Full City. (City roast seemed a little grainy, oat-like due to underroast). The wet aroma has orange marmalade and cinnamon-allspice notes, and these come out in the cup flavor too. I was impressed how the clean brightness is stable through all the roast ranges, even into 2nd crack, where sarsaparilla/root beer flavors are present. City+ roast has apple cider flavors as well as floral touches; honeysuckle. While I didn't like the lightest City roast much when I first cupped it on 12 hours rest, it really balanced out at 48 hours, with sweet jammy orange-apricot flavor. In the finish there are some slight piney/foresty tastes, hinting at it's origin as a near-Indonesia coffee. The body is light, and it's not a cup with huge dimension/depth, but I think this is the best PNG of the year, based on all my cuppings.
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